Thursday, January 6, 2011


For a cat especially the kitten, a human environment hold many dangers. Its owner must protect it from these until it becomes agile and wiser.
The following danger lurk in typical households. Always check wheather there are additional ones in your home. The most important decision you need to make from the outset is whether or not the kitten is to be given outdoor liberty.


More than at any time in the past, the question of how much freedom a cat should be given is the subject of heated debate. It is a very subjective matter. Here the more pertinent points are given so you can relate these to your home location. This, to a very large degree, should influence your decision.

Cats living in or close to an urban area are at the highest safety risk. The amount of traffic is such that death from road accidents is a major concern. In such environments there are high dog populations, some of which are feral. Injury or death from dog attacks is therefore another major source of danger to a feline.

Urban cat populations are also extremely high. Far too many cats are living a virtually feral existence. These are tough, street-wise cats that often carry fleas and other parasite that are vectors of disease. Some will carries of, or infected with, feline leukaemia and other deadly diseases.
The typical feline family pet can be deadly injured if it becomes engaged in fights with these roaming bullies. Furthemore, their very presence in and around a gentle's cat garden can cause the pet severe stress. This can make it fearful of stepping outside its home. in some instances, it may cause the pet to actually leave its home.

Sadly, if these risks are not enough, there is no shortage of people who will steal a pedigreed cat, the more so if it is friendly.
Add to this number of abusive people who do not like cat roaming into their garden, and the scenario is not good. Finally, free-roaming cats also take a heavy toll on local bird and wildlife populations.
Taking these various facts into account, the urban cat is best kept indoors. It can enjoy the benefit of the outdoors if supplied with a roomy aviary type exercise pen.
Some cats can be trained to walk on a lead. This allows outdoor enjoyment, even if this is restricted to the garden. When walking your cat in public places, use only a harness. This is much safer than a collar.

In contrast to urban situations, the cat living in a rural environments is far safer, the more so if there is no immediate neighbours or busy roads. Even so, it is wise to restrict the cat's outdoor freedom to daylight hours.
During the night it is more likely to get run over or to threaten local wildlife.

Those living between the extremes of isolated areas and busy urban environments should consider the local risk factor.
Generally, its best to keep the cat indoors but to provide an outdoor exercise pen.


Within its home, a kitten is best viewed as an accident waiting to happen. The most dangerous room is the kitchen. Hot electric hobs, naked flames from gas rings, boiling pans of food or water and sink full with water are obvious hazards. An iron left on its board with cable trailing to the floor is an invitation to a kitten to jump up- with potentially fatal consequences. Washing machine with warn clothes in them, with the door open are inviting place to nap. Always check that kitty isnt inside if the door has been left open. Cupboards containing poisonous or other dangerous substances should always be kept securely closed.
Toilet can be fatal to an over curious kitten. The same is true of bath containing water. Balconies should be safeguarded to remove the potential for the kitten to slip and fall.


Certain accessories should be regarded as OBLIGATORY and obtained before the kitten arrives in your home.


This will save the furniture from being abused. There are mane models, Some being simple posts, while others are combined with play stations and sleeping quarters. These are the best.


Some are open trays, other are domed to provide extra privacy. Still others have special bases in which odour removers are fitted.


There are numerous types on the market, each offering advantages and drawbacks. Avoid the low-cost types that contain a lot of dangerous dust. Use those that are fully biodegradable.


Polished metal has the longest wear life. Earthenware is less costly than metal and superior to the plastic types.


These will comprise a good-quality bristle brush, a fine toothed comb, nail trimmers, and a soft chamois leather.


Essential for transporting the cat to the vet or other places, as well as for home restriction when needed. Be sure it is large enough to accomodate a fully-grown Maine Coon, not just a kitten. The choice is between collapsible models, soft plastic type and the best choice those made from fibreglass.

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Some Tips for Purchasing a Maine Coon


Never rush into the purchase of a companion that is to be given the freedom of your home and will become an integral part of your life. A purebreed cat may live 20 years or more. This is a Long time. it is very prudent to take all those steps that will minimize the chances of your ever regretting the choice you make. Once you decided on the sex, age, reason for purchase(pet, show or breeding) and desired color pattern, proceed cautiously, heeding all the advice given here. By following a planned process of selection, you will also gain much useful information.

The initial cost of Maine Coon Cat represents only a fraction of its lifetime's cost. The first question is, "Can you afford one?". The kitten needs vaccinations to protect it againts various diseases. Boosters are then required every year. Cat food is more costly than that for dogs. There is also the cost of cat litter every week. Periodic vet checks and treatment for illness or accident must be allowed for. When holiday are taken, you may need to board the pet at a petshop or place for boarding.
From outset there will be additional costs apart from that of kitten. It will need basket, carrying box, feeding and grooming utensils, scratching post and some toys. If you have any doubt at all about being able to suplly all these needs, it is best not to obtain a cat.
It is most unfortunate that many people rush into the purchase of cats on impulse. They then find they cannot cope when problems and extra cost,ensue. Some lost interest in the pet once it matures past its kitten stage.
The evidence of these realities is easily seen in the growing number of cats abandoned or taken to animal shelters every year. Invariable their owners will make feeble excuses for why the cat cannot be kept. But the bottom of the line is they did not stop to consider at the outset what responsible ownership entailed.


When you Take delivery of your kitten, certain paperwork should come with it
-Three to Five generation of Pedigree.
-Breeder-signed registration application form or change of owner registration form. This assumes the breeder has registered stock. If they have not, the kitten cannot be registered at a later date. It is worth less than the kitten with registration paperwork BUT you are not recommended to purchase a kitten from UNREGISTERED parents.
-Certificates of health, Vaccination and neutering, if this has been effected. Ideally, it is desirable that the kitten's parents have been tested negative for major deases.Additionally, the breeder should know the blood group of your kitten. This may be of importance at a later day.
-Details of worming or other treatments attended.
-Diet sheet, feeding timetable and brand names of food items used. This diet should be maintain for at least ten days while the kitten adjusts to the trauma of moving home
-signed receipt for money paid
-signed copy of any guarantees. Not all breeders give a guarantee on the reasonable grounds that once the kitten leaves their care, its onward well-being is no longer under their control.

Example of CFA cert.

EXAMPLE of health certification


Most potential owners normally want a kitten because it is so cute, cuddly and playful. A kitten is easily trained and has not yet developed bad habits, which is the older Maine Coon may have done. This said, if you plant to breed or exhibit, there are advantages in obtaning a young adult. Other potential owners, such as elderly, may benefit by avoiding the demanding need of a young kitten. In both of these instances, a good age is when the youngster is 9-15 months old. Even a fully mature Maine Coon may prove an excellent choice for some owners.
Kitten should not be obtained under 12 weeks old, though 14-16 weeks is better. No reputable breeder will sell them younger than this.


Closely inspect any kitten before making a final decision. Keep in mind the following points
-EYES AND NOSE: Clean and clear with no signs of discharge.
-EARS: Fresh smelling and erect.
-COAT: Healthy, not dull or dry.
-ANAL REGION: Clean with no staining of fur.
-FEET: four toes on each foot, Plus a dewclaw on the inside of each front legs.
-TEETH: correct bite
There should be no sign of parasites or bald area of fur. A potbelly may indicate worms.


This is very important part.
If you choose the breeder wisely, and especially if a friend recommend him, this will remove potential problem related to your making a poor choice. However, a litle knowledge on what to look for will not go amiss. Observe the kitten from a distance to ensure none is unduly lethargic, which is never a good sign. If any display signs of illness, this should bring to an end any further thought of purchase from that source. A reputable breeder would not allow an ill kitten remain within its litter.
It is always advisable to select a kitten that shows particular interest in you. Maine Coon are very discerning. If both of you are drawn to each other, this will greatly enhance the bonding essential for a strong relationship.
Make sure the kitten that you choose is a healthy kitten.

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

TICA Standard Breed For Maine Coon

example for TICA profile for Maine Coon


HEAD. . 40 points

Shape. . 8
Eyes ... 5
Ears. . 10
Muzzle and Chin.. 10
Profile. 7

BODY. .35 points

Torso. . .10
Legs and Feet.. . 3
Tail. . . . . . . 5
Boning. . . . . . 7
Musculature. . . . 10


Length.. . . 10
Texture. . . 5
Color.. . . 5
Pattern. . . 5

CATEGORY: Traditional.



Overall balance and proportion are
essential to the Maine Coon and no
one feature should dominate the
eye's attention over any other.

Shape: Broad, modified wedge.
Size in proportion to body. Slightly
longer than wide. Distinct muzzle
break can be seen under high
prominent cheekbones.

Eyes: Large, slightly oval,
appear round when wide open.
Outer corner of eye points toward
outer base of ear. Wide-set. Color:
Any shade of green and/or gold. No
relationship to coat color. Blue and
odd-eyes accepted in whites and

Ears: Large, wide at base with
outer base set just slightly farther
back than inner base. Outer base
just above the level of the top of the
eye. Outside edges have a very
slight outward tilt that is not past
eleven and one o'clock. Set fairly
high on head with inner edge of ear
bases no more than one ear's width
apart. Taller than the width at base
but still in balance with head length.
Moderately pointed ears appear taller
due to lynx tips. Furnishings extend
beyond outer edge of ear.

Chin: Wide and deep enough to
complete square look of muzzle.
Firm, in line with upper lip.

Muzzle: Square.

Profile: Gently curving forehead.
Gentle concave curve at bridge of
nose flowing into a smooth nose line.
Slight nose bump allowed in kittens.


Torso: Large, long, substantial,
rectangular, equal in breadth from
shoulders to hips. Broad chest. Level
back. Females may be noticeably
smaller than males.

Legs: Medium length to form a
rectangle with the body.

Feet: Large, round and welltufted.

Tail: At least as long as the
body. Wide at base and tapering to
tip with full, flowing fur.
Boning: Substantial.
Musculature: Substantial,

Length: Uneven; shorter on
shoulders, gradually lengthening
down the back and sides. Long, full,
shaggy belly fur and britches. Tail fur
long, full, flowing. Frontal ruff
becomes more developed with age.
Texture: All weather coat. A
slight undercoat gives the coat body
but coat still falls smoothly. Not

Color: Particolors must have
some white on all four feet.

Maine Coon is America's native
longhaired cat. The breed, with its
essentially amiable disposition,
developed through a natural
selection process where only the
fittest survived. It should always be
remembered that the Maine Coon
developed basically as a "working
cat" able to fend for itself in rough,
woody terrain and under extreme
climatic conditions. The Maine Coon
is a large breed with big ears, broad
chest, substantial boning, a long,
hard muscled, rectangular body and
a long flowing tail. Good muscle
tone and density give the cat the
appearance of power.

ALLOWANCES: Standard favors
the male. Allowance MUST be made
for a significant size difference
between the male and the female.
Type should not be sacrificed for
size. Breed is slow to mature. Allow
for tighter earset in kittens and wider
earset in mature adults

Eyes: Slanted, almond-shaped.
Flat tops on openings.
Ears: Very close, set straight up.
Narrow bases. Wide set, flared
Chin: Weak or receding, narrow,
lack of depth.
Muzzle: Prominent whisker
Profile: Straight. Roman nose.
Pronounced bump.
Torso: Narrow.
Tail: Short tail.
Coat: Lack of slight undercoat or
belly shag. Overall even coat.
Color: Obvious lockets.

CFA Standard breed for Maine Coon

example for CFA Maine Coon : credit to- GC Velvetjewels 007 of Mainesuspect(CFA's 3rd best Maine Coon in the Southern Region in the 006-007 show year. )


HEAD (30)
Shape . 15
Ears... 10
Eyes ... 5

BODY (30)
Shape.. 15
Neck ... 5
Legs and Feet .. 5
Tail ... 5

....... 20

COLOR (15)
Body color and pattern . 15


GENERAL: originally a working cat, the Maine Coon is solid,
rugged, and can endure a harsh climate. A distinctive characteristic
is its smooth, shaggy coat. A well proportioned and balanced
appearance with no part of the cat being exaggerated. Quality
should never be sacrificed for size. With an essentially amiable
disposition, it has adapted to varied environments.

HEAD SHAPE: medium in width and slightly longer in length than
width with a squareness to the muzzle. Allowance should be made
for broadening in older studs. Cheekbones high.

MUZZLE/CHIN: is visibly square, medium in length and blunt
ended when viewed in profile. It may give the appearance of being
a rectangle but should not appear to be tapering or pointed.
Length and width of the muzzle should be proportionate to the rest
of the head and present a pleasant, balanced appearance. The
chin should be strong, firm and in line with the upper lip and nose.
When viewed in profile the chin depth should be observable and
give the impression of a square, 90-degree angle. A chin lacking
in depth, i.e. one that tapers from the jaw line to the lip, is not considered
strong, firm or desirable.

PROFILE: should be proportionate to the overall length of the
head and should exhibit a slight concavity when viewed in profile.
The profile should be relatively smooth and free of pronounced
bumps and/or humps. A profile that is straight from the brow line
to the tip of the nose is not acceptable, nor should the profile show
signs of having a “break” or “stop.”

EARS: Shape: large, well-tufted, wide at base, tapering to appear
pointed. Set: approximately one ear’s width apart at the base; not

EYES: large, expressive, wide set with an opened oval shape.
Slightly oblique setting with slant toward outer base of ear.

NECK: medium long.

BODY SHAPE: muscular, broad-chested. Size medium to large.
Females generally are smaller than males. The body should be
long with all parts in proportion to create a well-balanced rectangular
appearance with no part of the anatomy being so exaggerated
as to foster weakness. Allowance should be made for slow

LEGS and FEET: legs substantial, wide set, of medium length,
and in proportion to the body. Forelegs are straight. Back legs are
straight when viewed from behind. Paws large, round, well-tufted.
Five toes in front; four in back.

TAIL: long, wide at base, and tapering. Fur long and flowing.

COAT: heavy and shaggy; shorter on the shoulders and longer on
the stomach and britches. Frontal ruff desirable. Texture silky with
coat falling smoothly.

PENALIZE: a coat that is short or overall even.

DISQUALIFY: delicate bone structure. Undershot chin, i.e. the
front teeth (incisors) of the lower jaw overlapping or projecting
beyond the front teeth of the upper jaw when the mouth is closed.
Crossed eyes. Kinked tail. Incorrect number of toes. White buttons,
white lockets, or white spots. Cats showing evidence of
hybridization resulting in the colors chocolate, lavender, the
Himalayan pattern; or unpatterned agouti on the body (i.e.
Abyssinian type ticked tabby).

A Potrait Of The Maine Coon

The definitive description of the Maine coon is written in its official standard. This is prepared by the Breed's National Club and presented to a major registration body for adoption. Thereafter it is used as the blueprint for judging the breed in exhibition run under the rules of the given registry. Although the standard of each national registry will be differ somewhat in its wording, its meaning remain the same.

The following description is not that of any one association but is based on reference to THREE major registries. These are the CCCF of Britain and the CFA and TICA of America.


Head is of medium length with the width being somewhat shorter than the length. In mature males,due allowance should be made for development of jowls, which give the face of fuller, wider look. The muzzle in profile is square, of medium length and blunt. The nose leather and upper lip should lay in the same perpendicular line and continue to form a firm chin.
The bite should be level. This mean the upper and the lower incisor teeth should just touch, neither protruding in front of the other.
When viewed in profile, the nose joins the forehead brow via a gentle concave curve at the nasal bridge.
There should not be a pronounced stop, nor should the head form a straight line from the brow to the nose tip. The face give the impression of a wedge, but one in which the lines are gently rounded as compared with the straight lines of the oriental type. The neck is of moderate length, thick and especially muscular in adult males.


Large,pointed and ideally with tufted tips. The ears are wide at their based and set high on the head with just a slight outward tilt. The distance between them should be no more than the width of the ear base. ample ear furnishing are often present- these being the hairs that grow from the ear's open base.


Large and round when alert, the may become oval when relaxed. set well apart with their aperture being set slightly oblique towards the outer base of the ear.
Color is shade of green, gold or copper. There is no relationship between eye and coat color. Blue or odd-eyed are acceptable in white cats.


Of medium to large size, the body is of a rectangle shape and substantial bone. It should by very muscular, with good chest width. The rump has a squared appearance.


Medium in length, the legs must be substantial and display good bone and ample muscle. The large paws are round and should contain five toes on the front feet and four on the rear. The toes should be tufted with hair, these often being called snowshoe


This should be at least as Long as the body from it shoulder to the tail root. Its base is wide and tapers gradually towards its tip.


The Maine Coon sports both winter and summer coats. The description here is that of the winter coat, the summer being shorter, though the tail largely retains its beautiful length even in warmer months. In order to provide maximum weather resistance, the coat is comprised of a short but adequate soft underfur that creates warmth. A much more substantial topcoat of smooth silk like guard hairs protect this from rain, snow and wind. The result is a relatively self-maintaining coat that is easier to groom than might initially be expected.
There is a frontal ruff of long hair that begins on the side of the head and continues down the chest. The hair on the head, neck and shoulders short but gets longer on the flanks and back. The fur of the breeches and underbelly is full and described as being shaggy. Tail fur is long and flowing, often parting on either side of the tail. Any tendency towards a woolly or fluffy coat is decidedly undesirable.


specific breed faults, as opposed to those applicable to any cat, are as follow:
Coby(squared) body, fine bones and lack of good muscle. Lack of size. Long thin legs. Blue or odd-eyed cats in any coat other than white. A definite stop or nose break at the nasal bridge. Short or flared ears. Pronounced whisker pads. A coat that has an even length over the whole body.excess under coat. Lack of belly fur(shag). The extent of acceptable white fur is discussed where applicable.
Finally the color chocolate and lilac, together with the Siamese restriction pattern, which would indicate hybridisation with a breed carrying the genes for this, are not permitted. In the CFA, the ticked body pattern of Abbysinian tabby is also cited as not being acceptable.

Monday, January 3, 2011

My Other Pets

this is Hedgehog. my other pet. they are so lovely animal,owing to their apparently innocent and playful looks. Hedgehogs are considered a low-maintenance pet. Normally there is 3 various color for hedgehog which is Salt n papper, cinnamon and albino. mine are cinnamon.
they look vicious and danger because of their spines but thats wrong. hedgehog are very soft and tender animal. you can handle and play with them even on your bed, but avoid to sleep together,yes, it might be dangerous.